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Current System

Graphic: My daily checklist

Current stuff:
Protein (I think this link is it; I think it's by Precision)


Non-workout days:

1/2 serving Rage upon waking with 5g creatine monohydrate

wait half hour
w/breakfast
2 pills OmegaPlex
1 v-100
Goal being to make sure I get creatine when it's gonna absorb the best and also to make sure I'm getting the multi-vitamin when it'll absorb best.  The fish oil pill should/may help with joints and it helps take the glycemic edge off the spike Rage.
Workokut day:
1 serving Rage 30 min before
1 scoops of protein + 1 scoop Syntha Phase + 5g creatine (and eaten/blended with a banana) right after working out
Goal is to get pumped before working out and everyone successful seems to say taking potassium (banana) and protein right after is the best timing.


Jared Fielding

Best Cash Back Credit Cards (2014 Update)

Best Cash Back Credit Cards for 2011

If you have good credit, the opportunities this year are quite a bit better than the ones from last year. I recently found & applied for the two best cash back credit cards I’ve seen available in a long time.

Over 18 months ago Schwab offered a cash back card at 2% for a limited time and the window closed before I could apply.  It does not plan to re-offer the card and I’ve been hunting for a 2% cash back credit card ever since.  Fidelity is offering two amazing deals, including a 2% cash back card, for an unknown period of time; act accordingly.

(Drum roll) Here are the best cash back credit cards for 2011 (and updated for 2013 — still the same!)

American Express Fidelity Rewards: Earn 2% cash on everything.  The best overall credit card on the internet.  Requires opening a Fidelity account online here (<3 minutes, no deposit required). Cash back rewards are transferred to the Fidelity account (can be transferred to your checking or automatically invested in an IRA or college savings account).  You can setup the cards to auto-sweep to your account monthly assuming you have at least $50 (instead of yearly like Costco or until you have some minimum number of points).  App.

VISA Capital One Rewards:  Earn 1.5% cash back on everything.  This is better than the Fidelity VISA card in two important ways:  it doesn’t require a Fidelity account and instead of sweeping the money into an account, you can set it to auto credit against your future bill so you get immediate benefit instead of the bank holding your money. App.

VISA Fidelity Cash Rewards: Earn 1.5% cash on everything.  Requires first opening a Fidelity Cash & Brokerage account online here (<3 minutes, no deposit required)). Cash back rewards are transferred to the Fidelity account which can be transferred to your checking or automatically invested in an IRA or college savings account.  Be sure to give Fidelity account # to representative if applying by phone.  App.

American Express Costco Business: Earn 3% back on gas up to $6,000, 2% on eating out, 2% on traveling, and 1% on everything else.  They send a check out once a year with what you accumulated. App.

American Express Costco Personal: Earn 3% back on gas, 3% on eating out, 2% on traveling and 1% on everything else. They send a check out once a year with what you accumulated. App.

Amex SimplyCash Business: Earn 5% cash back on wireless service and office supplies , 3% on gasoline up $12,000 per year, and 1% on every other purchase.  $100 annual fee (which eliminates a lot of its value for me).  Plus, it is automatically credited to your statement each month. App.

American Express Additional Benefits:
Extended Warrenty: Extends the term of the original manufacturer’s warranty up to one additional year.
Damage/Theft Protection: Protects purchases against accidental damage and theft for up to 90 days from purchase.
Other Benefits here half way at bottom.

American Express is the best card to use for all new purchases particularly because it extends the warranty for free for a year, which has a lot of value.  For example, extending the iPhone warranty 1 year costs an additional $70; an extended warranty on a new TV or other high end purchase is worth even more money.  A friend recently had the water pump on his hot tub go out;  it was outside the manufacturer’s warranty by 1 month.  But it was covered by American Express, who cut him a check for $700.

Since American Express is not accepted at all places, particularly restaurants, there’s value in also having a VISA Rewards card.

VISA Bank of America Rewards: 3% gas, 2% restaurants, 1% everything else plus $50 cash bonus.  App.

Summary:  The difference between 1% and 1.5%-2% is  is 50%-100% more cash back.  It’s the difference between a $500 (at 1%) and a $750 (at 1.5%) or $1,000 (at 2%) for simply using a better card.

Avoid.  Credit cards with “up to” language or that have rotating categories or other strings attached generally are games that lower total cash back at the end of a year.

Debit Cards.  While I strongly dislike debit cards because they are more difficult to deal with in terms of fraud protection and offer less fringe benefits, below is the best cash back debit card available:

Mastercard PerkStreet Debit Card:  2% cash back on everything provided you maintain a $5,000+ balance. Less than $5,000, the reward drops to 1%. App.

These are the best deals I believe are available.  If you’re aware of something better, please let me know.

 

Emergency Funds 201

This is an email I wrote to the author of The Simple Dollar in response to his article detailing an approach I think builds on his idea but I feel is much better.

________________________________________________________

I always enjoy your articles.  You’re a good writer, your comments are relatively succinct, and spot on.
So this reaction is the exception.  I want to take issue with a comment in this article that I *strongly* disagree with.
Also, never, ever have an emergency fund that consists of a credit line”

I think it’s extremely prudent to have a line of credit in case something goes wrong.  I’m a fan of cash-like reserves, but the reality is, if you have any debt, instead of having cash sitting earning essentially 0-1% interest, you could be essentially earning that debt interest rate as a rate of return. 

For example, as a self-employed person, I believe strongly in having safety reserves — I have more ups and downs than an average person.  However, as soon as I make money, I instantly use it to pay down whatever debt I have — making sure that debt allows me to borrow back against it as soon as I need money again.  Now if the debt is such that it does not allow one to borrow back without fees (credit cards charge 3% fee for borrowing cash — ick), that wouldn’t make sense (and I have none of that debt).  But what I would argue would make more sense is to go to a bank and setup a 5-50k line of credit at 5-7% (very common, very easy to do, usually a 1x charge of $50 to setup).  Have it sitting there as essentially a cash reserve, and then use whatever cash reserves you have to pay off any debt.  This keeps liquidity that’s essential for emergencies while optimizing for interest payments.  If your debt is at 5-25%, you’re essentially investing your cash reserves at that rate of return, safe, with liquidity to pull it out at any time.  I’ve used this strategy for 6+ years very effectively.

Playing Devil’s Advocate.  The argument against this is what happens if the bank reduces the line of credit (I recommend having an amount higher than you need).  Or what happens if the bank closes the LOC all together (which is why I recommend having a line at more than one bank).  Neither of those situations has happened, but they’re possible, and it’s wise to have thought through and prepared for what can go wrong.  Obviously, another problem is what if the person is unable to control their spending (not a problem I have), then this solution would not apply to them.  This is designed for people who are not irresponsible.

Based on how I see it this solution of having a line of credit at a bank is inexpensive to create (usually $50-$150 one-time setup fee), offers much more safety than pure cash reserves (instead of 3-5k available for emergency, there’s 5-50k), all your money is working for you at credit card interest rates instead of losing 3% in net inflation.

For a reader who has some basic credit card debt, and could get a simple LOC at a bank, your cash-only reserve solution is essentially costing readers 10-25% a year unnecessarily.  I think there’s a better, more frugal, safer way.

As a huge financial perk, I would argue it also allows one to seize a killer buying opportunity if it comes along that might otherwise be missed.  If someone is gets desperate and needs to unload their car for 10k cash that’s worth 17k, you could write the check and save (relatively) a huge amount of money.  You’ve now saved your family a huge amount of money (especially considering after tax dollars – a huge hidden perk of frugality).  And if you don’t need it, you could flip it for easy profit.

Lastly, I would argue that the size of your emergency fund (regardless of cash or LOC) should also have “job stability” as part of the variable.  I think self-employed person, or someone with a high degree of stability risk should make sure they have access to more funds than say a tenure teacher.

I think the concept of Emergency Funds that you covered is very important.  Unexpected emergencies that one is unprepared for can take out years of hard work and otherwise perfect planning/work.   I think the elements of utilizing a LOC and ratio’ing the safety amount to stability also improve one’s ability to succeed.
I’m open to other thoughts if you see a hole in my thought process.

Emergency Funds 101

The Simple Dollar: “Determining the Size of Your Emergency Fund” plus 1 more


One common question I get from readers relates to the size of their emergency fund. Simply put, how big should it be? How much cash should they have saved in their savings account for those unexpected events life deals you?
Before we even get started, it’s important to note that there are a lot of different theories and ideas about how big an emergency fund should be. The ideas that follow are largely based on my own experience and from the many stories that readers have shared with me over the years.
Also, never, ever have an emergency fund that consists of a credit line. Your credit card is not an emergency fund. A line of credit is given to you by a bank and they have the power to revoke that line of credit or reduce it, often at the very moment when you’re facing an emergency and need that money. Do notrely on it. It is not an emergency fund.
First of all, no matter what your situation, you should strive to have $1,000 in your savings account. If you’re trying to pay down debt, switch to minimum payments for a while and build up this level of cash on hand.
$1,000 covers the vast majority of the emergencies we face in life. It can handle most car repairs. It can handle many medical emergencies, particularly if you’re insured with a deductible of $1,000 or less. It can handle lots of smaller situations that you didn’t quite expect.
If you have high-interest debt, pay that off before building your emergency fund beyond $1,000. I would define high-interest debt as being any debt with an interest rate above 10%. If you are carrying a debt with an interest rate at that level, you need to get rid of that debt. It’s seriously hurting your finances if you let it continue to sit there and accumulate interest.
If you have only low interest debts, I would move that emergency fund up to two months of living expenses for your family. I would consider two months of living expenses to be the base level of money I would keep in your emergency fund.
What exactly is two months of living expenses? Sit down with your checking account and figure out how much you spend in an average month. The best way to do this is to add up all of your spending over the last year – all of it – and divide by twelve. That will give you your average spending for a month. Multiply that by two and you have two months of living expenses.
Of course, if you’re ever in a desperate pinch, you’ll probably cut your spending somewhat and the money will last longer than that. That’s fine, but you never want to assume how your future self spends money.
If you have dependent children, I would add another month of living expenses to your emergency fund for each dependent child. Of the items here, this is the one that I would most describe as personal opinion. Simply put, when you have young children, you need to do what you can to maintain a stable household for them. Children thrive in a stable environment. One big tool for maintaining that stable environment is a very healthy emergency fund.
Don’t invest your emergency fund money into anything that might lose money. Many people are disappointed in the returns that a savings account gives and want to put their money into other investments with a higher potential return. However, investments that offer a better return tend to lose one (or both) of the two key factors that make savings accounts perfect vehicles for emergency funds. Savings accounts don’t have the risk of losing money over time (often at the moment when you need the money) and savings accounts are highly liquid, meaning you can withdraw the money whenever you need it without penalty.
Yes, stocks might outperform a savings account over a long period of time, but on a given day, stocks can very easily be down significantly, which means that you may not have adequate resources during the very emergency when you need it. If you put money into something like CDs, where you’re not at risk of a loss and get a better return, you face the liquidity problem in that you can’t withdraw the money without penalty at the moment you need it. Stick with savings accounts for this purpose.
When you do choose to use your emergency fund, your first priority should be to replenish it once you’re back on your feet. This might mean turning off other savings plans or investing plans for a bit as you replenish, but this needs to be done as quickly as possible to protect yourself against subsequent emergencies.

My car tire shopping experience

I purchased my Avalon XLS because I wanted a smooth, quiet ride.  Then I put the cheapest, longest lasting tires I could find.  The result was a surprisingly loud ride I’ve endured for years.
I recently learned I had made a mistake since car tires are one of the top variables in a smooth quiet ride.
Now that I knew, I had no idea which tires were the quietest, or best quality, or best value.
Coming from the ground up.  I started at Les Schwab, my favorite tire store.  They recommended a Toyo Tourino II tire for $845 installed ($180/tire + expenses), indicating it was their highest quality tire, quietest ride, and that I couldn’t do better.
Since one tire was worn all the way through, the temptation to buy and be done with it was strong.  Les Schwab has a good reputation for value.
Instead, I got them to put on my spare in place of the most worn through tire so I could have a few more days to think/analyze.  I rarely make good buying decisions in the moment.
Research.  I googled “quietest tire” and read a few websites and consumer reviews.  Consistently the Michelin’s Primacy MXV4’s came up, along with Goodyear’s ComforTread, and Toyo’s Versado (I learned it was the same tire as the Les Schwab Tourino tire, just “rebranded” for Les Schwab).
I could get the ComforTread for $180/tire, the Versados for $180/tire, and the Primacy for $140/tire with a $70 rebate, for an adjusted cost of $122.50/tire.  Going from $122/tire to $180 is almost a 50% increase ($180/$122).
Which showed the Goodyear tires #1 and the Michelin tires as the #2 rated tire.
I called my buddy who loves cars, whose entire extended family is into cars and asked him.  He said he thought Michelin tires were the highest quality and Michelin tires were all he and his family bought. He said they bought from Costco.  He also encouraged me to focus on total cost; some tire companies charge very little for the tires and then kill you on the installation.  Good idea.
I then called 5 different tire stores (both large and small companies), asked for the manager, and asked their opinion on quietest tires and best brands.  Consistently managers indicated the Michelin brand was the highest quality tire and most likely to last as long as the warranty rating.  One manager told me he had every tire to choose from and the Primacy MXV4s were what was on his Acura.
Analysis.  Saving money wasn’t my highest goal here, but my analysis showed the least expensive tire was made by the most recommended brand, and the Primacy was the most recommended quiet tire in the most recommended brand.  It was praised by consumer reviews and nearly every tire shop manager I spoke with.  It was top-rated in rain, ice, snow, handling, and noise.
Where to Buy.  Now I knew which tire I wanted, I called around for pricing.  The exact same set of Primacy tires varied $175 from highest prices to $135 at lowest price store.
Costco offered the Primacy tires for $135 a tire and Discount Tire offered it for $140 a tire.  Costco is 30+ minutes roundtrip from my house while Discount Tire is minutes from my home.  To make the tires last longer, I intended to rotate them every 5,000 miles which on 60,000 mile tires equates to approximately 12 trips.  That’s at least 6-7 extra hours of drive time.  Valuing time at $12/hr, that saves time and/or money ($84 worth of time).
The Final Purchase.  I called and asked Discount Tire if they’d price match Costco’s $5/tire cheaper price? Yes.  ($20 savings – and now the lowest price available anywhere).
The installer asked if I wanted to sipe the tires.  Siping is the process of putting a series of micro-cuts on the tire which gives it greater surface area on the road, and a quieter more comfortable ride.  I quickly confirmed this with research on my iPhone.  He said it would cost $15 a tire (an extra $60).  I asked if he’d do it for less.  He said yes and dropped the price in half ($30 savings).
In the end, I paid only $530 after rebate.  The same option at Les Schwab for maybe, maybe not as good of a tire was $875 – 65% more.
The Final Analysis.  I purchased the quietest, very highly rated tire from the highest quality maker on sale at a substantial discount from the other two top options.  I looked at consumer reviews, consumer ratings, talked with my most knowledgeable friend, and talked with multiple store managers.
My Review of the Primacy MXV4 Tires.  Love them.  I feel like I’m driving a new car.

2010 Final Election Results

2010 was almost a good year, until I invited Bree to our betting pool.  She single handedly destroyed us all, piling up more wins that everyone else put together.  It was an impressive betting year  — many of the results were decided by less an 1%.  Ah, well, there’s always 2012.

The full 2010 betting results are here:  Election Results 2010

Round 1 & 2 Results:

12 Bree
6 Jared
5 Dustin
2 Marshall
1 Lynn

On the round 3 level (blow out margins):
9 Bree
8 Jared
All hail, Bree.

Election: Senate Race By Race

I decided to go back and review each senate race one at a time. R’s are guaranteed +4 pickups. Here’s my projections at this point.

R’s +6 seems a borderline no brainer. +7 seems a reasonable lower threshold and +9 an upper threshold — which fits right within almost all pundits +8 estimates.
Staying R:
KY, Paul (R) +4.3. Given the polls consistency, this is likely stay R.

Switching From D to R:
IL, Kirk (R) +2.8. Given the polls consistency, this is likely to change to R.
PA, Toomey (R) +2.5. I think it will go R.
Unknown:
WV, Currently: D. Manchin (D) +2.3. Probably most interesting race since polls are very different. Rasmussen shows Raese +7, the other two polls show Manchin +6, +10 (both D pollsters). I would favor R on this one.
CO, Currently: D. Buck (R) +1.0. I would favor R on this one.
NV, Currently: D. Angle (R) +0.7. I see Reid saving this, but… an upset is very possible in this worst economy state. I suspect that a state as “uncorrupt” as Nevada will find a way to keep the incumbent in office.
Staying D:
WA, Murray (D) +2.2. Will stay D. A likely replay of 2000 if it’s close.
CA, Boxer (D) +2.5, Given CA propensity to go D, this is likely to stay with Boxer. Florentina lacks Arnold’s swagger needed to get an R elected in the Hollywood state.
A good Pollster article reviewing some of the senate races and a look at all the races and their ratings at electionprojection.

The Election: 10 days away

These are the heavy hitters in prediction. General consensus is 8 in senate (not enough) and a massive pickup on the house side around 50+.

BATTLE FOR HOUSE

Bottom-line, feels like 2008 is 8 years ago for Republicans.
– – –

A Snapshot:

I found a website that I hadn’t used before, which offers a deeper look at some of the data than realclearpolitics.com.

A summary of the stats from Pollster.com:
Obama on the Economy: -18% disapprove
Obama on Health Care: -10% disapprove
Obama (general): -5% disapprove

Looking at Obama from 3 points of view:
Obama (dem’s rating): +64% approve
Obama (R’s rating): -80% disapprove
Obama (Independents): -15% disapprove

It’s interesting to be able to see independents seperated from those who are “pre-determined.” I wish I could see health care ratings by R/D/Independent.

Party Affiliation (very interesting):
32% Democrats
35% Independents
25% Republicans

I had no idea R affiliation was so much less than D affiliation. That being said, R’s are probably more likely to be Independent (R’s are a more independent group).

RCP Generic Polling
+7.8 Republican lead
48% Republican Vote
41% Democrat Vote

What’s fascinating is if you look at historical data and see that the R’s are now where the D’s used to be (at the 48% level). Who’d a thunk it. In large part, I think it’s the economy. The D’s are in power and getting covered with the crap of a situation that’s not their creating. If the R’s were in power, it’d be the same thing.

Nothing particularly new to report. Wanted to “timestamp” some pol-stats.

60 Days to Go: A short update

The numbers for Democrats seem to be getting worse as time goes one. This is inline with my predictions at the beginning of this blog. Of course that doesn’t mean much since the election isn’t today.

If it was, however, it would be a bath.

The Gallup poll showing R’s leading D’s by +10 pts in the generic polling is the largest in Gallup’s polling history.

The Crystal Ball went on record to say that the R’s will pick up the House as almost a given, and the balance of the Senate is only slightly leaning D at this point. They have a 98% prediction track record over the last 10+ years.

Presently, the ElectionPrediction.com is calling for a equally large +9 Senate pickup (a smaller House pick-up, but still a R majority).

I prefer RealClearPolitics average which is a much more accurate picture than any single poll in my experience. This shows a (moving) average of +4.8pts – which seems a tad more grounded. However, given that R’s are much more fired up to turn out than D’s. When you factor in likely voter turnout, if the election were held today, it would be worse than the RCP average shows (something I’ve also been asserting). I think the recent prediction is probably a high-side analysis (ie, I think it’s reasonable, but stretching the slightly high side. The final numbers are unlikely to be much higher than this prediction). I think if it were held today, Senate would likely be +8 R.

Sabato commented that things can change and highlighted a few things that could sway things one way or the other. If the R’s have any brains, they won’t do anything significant. This is their election wave to ride – not to create. The current news – and more important, the upcoming economic news in my opinion – are likely to deteriorate. Since I watch real estate from the ground, having a double dip economy is something I’ve predicted since the announcement of the Stimulus Package. I see it not as “possible” or “likely” – more as a nearly foregone consequence of living on debt. It’s a question of timing at this point. The bets aren’t about will we have a double dip. The bets are trying to call how soon. That’s a 2012 issue in my opinion. For now, I see things deteriorating (not improving or even maintaining) from where they are, although probably not radically in the next 60 days. See the most recent unemployment/jobless numbers showing a slow negative trend.

Sabato’s projections are closer to what I see as likely on election day. I saw his previous projections as a tad conservative (which they were, by his own admission today). I’m comfortable in the +7-8 zone more than +6 or +9 at this point (today). I doubt it will get significantly better for R’s from +9; the pain could decrease quite a bit for D’s from here — but I don’t foresee that happening significantly. However, since I see things worsening, while I see +9 as a high-side today, it’s quite possible +9 will be “likely” in 60 days.

Still 60 days for change one way or the other.